Oils produced by the body help keep skin healthy, but there can be too
much of a good thing. Excess oil can lead to blemishes and acne flare-ups.
"Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to cut down on oiliness,"
Andrea Cambio, MD, medical director of Cambio Dermatology in Cape Coral,
Florida, says. Clear complexion strategies range from over-the-counter
cleansers to prescription lotions and cosmetic treatments.
Cleansers
Dermatologists agree that the most effective way to manage oily skin is
to cleanse your face both morning and night. "Always use a gentle cleanser
since harsh soaps can trigger the skin to increase oil production," April
Armstrong, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at the University of California,
Davis, says. Also, beware of the buff. A washcloth or buff puff can actually
stimulate more oil secretion. If a basic facial cleanser doesn’t cut oiliness,
try a product that includes an acid such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid,
glycolic acid, or beta-hydroxy acid. "Many products containing these
acids are marketed as acne facial care products. They’re great for people with
acne, but they’re also fine for people whose problem is just oily skin,"
Armstrong says. "Since some of these ingredients can be irritating,
buy a small size to see how your skin responds. People often have to try
several products before they find the one that works best for them." Wash
with warm water, not hot, because temperature extremes can irritate skin.
Toners
Dermatologists are divided on whether the oil-reducing properties of
toner are legitimate. "I’m not a big fan of astringent toners because they
tend to irritate the skin and can lead to more oil production," Cambio
says. "Still, if people like using them, I recommend applying toners only
on oily areas of the skin, such as the forehead, nose, and chin. Avoid using
them on areas that tend to be dry or you’re likely to create dry patches on
your skin."
That’s advice worth remembering for all your skin care regimens.
"There’s a myth that some people have dry skin, some people have oily
skin. In fact, most people have combination skin, oily in some places, dry in
others," Ellen Marmur, MD, associate professor of dermatology at Mount
Sinai School of Medicine in New York, says.
Medicated Pads
Pads medicated with salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or other oil-cutting
acid ingredients are another beauty routine option. "Medicated pads are a
favorite among my patients with oily skin," Marmur says. "You can
carry them in your purse and use them on the run to freshen up your skin and
remove excess oil."
Blotting Paper
Cosmetic blotting papers offer a great option for removing oil because
they don’t dry out your skin. "Patients with oily skin really love
blotting paper because it’s convenient and easy to use," Armstrong says.
Apply it to oily areas, such as forehead, nose, and chin. Don’t scrub your skin
with the sheet of blotting paper. Instead, simply press it against the oily
area long enough to absorb oil, usually 15 to 20 seconds. Some blotting
papers are lightly powdered, which further reduces shine.
Masks and Clays
Applying masks and clays to the skin helps draw out oils and cleanses
pores, but there is also concern for over drying. "My advice is to apply
them only to problem areas and use them only occasionally," Rebecca Kazin,
MD, director of Johns Hopkins Cosmetic Center, says. She suggests limiting masks
and clays to really big events such as a wedding, a birthday dinner, or a big
presentation.
Moisturizers
"People who have oily skin often steer clear of moisturizers,
worrying that they’ll make their skin look even shinier," Kazin says.
That’s a bad idea. "Even oily skin needs to be moisturized to look its
best," she says. To avoid an oily sheen, choose an oil-free moisturizer.
Vary the amount you apply depending on whether the area tends to be dry or
oily.
Oil-free Sunscreen
"Traditional sunscreens can pose a problem for people with oily
skin since they tend to go on pretty thick and can block pores," Armstrong
says. Even so, protecting skin from ultraviolet radiation is absolutely
essential. Sunscreen gels are less likely than creams and lotions to make your
skin look oily, and there are a variety of new oil-free products for oily skin.
Some of the newest products, including facial powders, offer enough protection
to ward off sun damage in most situations.
Adapt Your Facial Regimen
How oily your skin appears can vary season by season, week by week, even
day by day. "Oil production is influenced by hormones, by mood, even by
the weather," Cambio says. "For example, some people have problems
with oily skin only in the summer when they’re sweating." It’s important
to be aware of how your skin varies so that you can adjust your regimen
accordingly. "You may need cleanser with glycolic acid or beta-hydroxy
acid every day during the summer but only now and then during the winter,"
Kazin says. "That’s important to know since overusing these products can
cause skin to dry out."
Talk to Your Dermatologist
If over-the-counter products aren’t enough to help you manage oily skin,
talk to your dermatologist. Lasers and chemical peels can help reduce oiliness
and improve the overall look of your skin. Creams laced with tretinoin,
adapalene, or tazarotene can also help by altering pores and reducing oiliness.
"Since these products can be irritating, it’s best to use them only on
oily areas and only as often as you really need it," Kazin says. It’s
worth remembering that oil production is a normal part of healthy skin.
"People with naturally oily skin tend to have fewer wrinkles and healthier
looking skin," Marmur says. So don’t go overboard in your efforts. Remove
excess oiliness when you need to look your best, but be careful to preserve
your skin’s natural anti-aging mechanism.
WebMD
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